The biggest thing Oyster Shed has going for
it is its on-the-river-looking-across-to-London Bridge location. It’s also
shiny and big but quirkily furnished enough that it doesn’t feel like one of
those soulless monstrosities of glass and chrome. I particularly enjoyed the
toilets, each cubical designed to look like a beach shed (though to get to them
you have to go down a lift which sounds fine, but was actually pretty annoying
on a busy Thursday night).
This location has its downsides however,
namely its proximity to towering offices full of businesspeople (who clearly race
for a pint en masse once they’ve finished making money for the day). From where
we sat, on the upper level, 30 seat dining area, it felt like we were looking
at a huge bowl of suit soup. The mezzanine level is much more civilised, each
table romantically decked out with candles and flowers, the din below adding a
pleasant buzz to proceedings.
The menu is concise and pubby (my favourite
kind) with classics such as chicken liver parfait, coronation crab, Lancashire hotpot
and steak and oyster pie (despite the gastro pub’s name, oysters only crop up
intermittently, so don’t get too excited/be put off if you are/are not a mollusc
fan). I had, of course, looked at the menu online and already decided on the very
exciting sounding ham hock and scotch egg salad, a rib eye and sticky toffee
pud. He added salt cod fritters, a second steak and a crème brûlée.
The salad, topped with shreds of soft pink
meat, quarters of warm scotch egg and a scattering of blanched peas, looked as
good as it read, and tasted even better. The golden fritters were tasty, though
(I never say this) they could have held back a bit on the seasoning. Both
steaks were cooked as we liked them, with a convincing criss cross of char
across the flesh. Accompanying chips and pretty little carrots were crispy and
crisp respectively. We tackled our cows with two excellent glasses of red, mine
a New Zealand Pinot Noir and his, a fine Bordeaux.
Things unravelled slightly with dessert (no
sticky sauce with the slightly dry toffee sponge and a tepid yet overcooked brûlée). But, as we were so full we could barely get the delicious pudding
wine to our lips, all was forgiven (particularly after the poor waiter seemed so
genuinely upset about the missing sauce, that he offered us an apology brandy).
We concluded the evening, sinking our matching
Armagnacs out front, taking in the twinkling city lights and endless red buses
hurtling across London Bridge. Which, on a randomly warm Thursday eve in Feb,
was pretty bloody lovely.
Oyster
Shed
1 Angel Lane
EC4R 3AB