Now I'm not what you'd call a forward
thinker. Once at university I was told that I'm so far inside the box, I might
as well live in it. This goes hand in hand with my ability to pick up a trend
once everyone else stops wearing it and getting to restaurants long after the
buzz has worn off.
Which is why I’m quite beside myself with
smugness that I am, for once, if not ahead of the pack, then at least with it.
Pizarro (the newest restaurant from José Pizarro of José and
Brindisa fame) has been open for two weeks, and I’d been twice in the first
four days. Once on launch night. To an actual trendy restaurant with hype.
Now I'm going to take most of the credit for
being cool but it has to be said, that José sure can put
together a plate of food. The food is closely followed by a rockin' interior (and
by rockin' I mean marvellous marriage of wood, brick and tiles) and hum of good
times being had by all. Service was great on both occasions, though admittedly
it helps when those waiting on you possess equal measures of good looks and
easy charm.
We had to wait (around an hour and a half
both times) but as the atmosphere is so like his other tapas
joints, the standing around felt more pleasure than chore. It does mean you're
likely to sink a bottle of cava before you eat anything however (well I did on both
occasions anyhow).
So to the eating. Not everything was
perfect but soft launch with 50% off food and booze effectively forgave this. Plus it was opening night and the place was rammed...
Quail
I've only ever had over-cooked quail so the
fact I could swallow without water was an excellent start. The sauce was really
good, full of flavour (though could have done with a punch of chilli).
Artichoke
I bloody love artichoke so there was little
chance of me hating this dish and it ended up being my second favourite of the
night. The tastes going off in my mouth (toasted cumin, soft artichoke, sharp
but creamy cheese) made me very happy indeed.
Squid
Bar calamari (deep frying anything in
batter makes it good) squid is another of those foods that often gets over-zealously cooked. This was exceptional in that regard. My fussy friend and fellow
blogger Eyes Bigger Than My Stomach confirmed this was cooked to perfection and “not
bad at all.”
Lamb
The lamb looked a touch past pink and, as a
result, was a little chewy. However it was the lambiest lamb ever, each chomp
releasing more flavour.
Partridge
Only dud of the night. Served in a ceramic
shallow dish, the dry bird sat on some watery beans in an under seasoned stock.
Less roasting of the bird and more reducing of the jus and this could be
impressive.
Pork
My mouth has been filling with saliva at random
intervals at the memory of these rare strips of super pig. Keep
describing it to friends as the sexiest tasting bacon I have ever been lucky
enough to put in my mouth.
Chocolate Toast
Wasn't sure about this one at first, but
ended up ordering this simple, but blindingly clever dessert on both visits. Combining
a bit of the 'toast', butterscotch ice cream and nutella-like sauce felt like
childhood.
Rice pudding
Cinammon-laced, creamy rice great. Sharp clementine
too bitter.
By the
time we ordered on Thursday, the Croquetas were sold out. To my delight,
they were back on Sunday and soothing in a way that only ham and cheese based bites can
be. We also tried the sweet potato starter with chunks of blue cheese (safe but nice combo), the hake with black cabbage which was a touch bland (silly as the stock,
cabbage and potatoes on which it sat sang with salty flavour) and an extremely
good vanilla ice cream, draped in booze laden grapes.
I've met José a couple of times and he's probably one of the nicest chefs in the business. This is evident at Pizarro which oozes comfort, warmth and a total lack of pretention (much like his brilliant croquetas). There are many
restaurants that buzz, there are many restaurants with cool, but there are very
few that personify the loveable charm of their creator so effectively.
194 Bermondsey Street
London
SE1 3TQ
London
SE1 3TQ
No comments:
Post a Comment